Harley-Davidson Part Number System

If you want genuine H-D parts for your 100-point restoration, then you must learn the Harley-Davidson part numbering system.  It's simple.

The first five numbers in the part number is the part itself.  The numbers after the hyphen is the year it first came out.  For example, a 45733-48 is a tube plug oil seal used on the front forks of the FL series bikes from 1948 to present.  If this part had a letter following the -48, then it would still be the same part but with an upgrade of some kind. (i.e.; 45733-48A).  The same part number, 45733-48B, would be the third incarnation of the part but would still work on 1948 to present FL models.  Hypothetically, if the part number were to change from 45733-48A to 45733-95, this would mean it changed so dramatically starting in 1995 that you must use that part from 1995 to present while the dash -48A number would work from 1948-1994 models.

Nuts, bolts, washers (common hardware) and most o-rings do not fall into this part number system.  They typically have up to five numbers only (i.e.; part number 11105 is a rubber o-ring where as part number 0207 is a washer).

Keeping it accurate is the key you'll need for using the correct part for the year motorcycle you have.

Buying parts for your Harley-Davidson can be scary OR fun on Ebay. You don't know if you are going to get new or used parts. I have spent over 26 years in the Harley business. I sell some items and even do special orders. The biggest thing I do is answer technical questions or price questions. What find is people do the research, but are missing a little experience. Make sure the part you are buying WILL FIT YOUR BIKE. If it says custom (versus say FITS 1989 TO PRESENT SOFTAIL) you will need to do some fabricating, possibly welding, etc. to get it to work. Make sure the seller clearly states what it does [most importantly WHAT IT DOES NOT FIT].

Also, price is not always the best way to shop. I never buy a part that is the most inexpensive, I did before and usually it meant going out and buying more stuff to make it work. I hate spending 4 hours in orchard supply or going through distributor catalogs or calling Chrome Hardware Supply to buy hardware when the seller should have supplied it. This is key with forward controls, as manufacturers have different ways of making controls, just believe now that your stock hardware WILL NOT WORK. So, do your homework. It is worth owning the parts and service manual for your motorcycle. Even if you own a custom motorcycle, having these as a reference will save a LOT of headaches. Also, don't be afraid to ask questions.

 Sellers who respond fast (at least within 2 days) are nice. Make sure your question is clear and specifies what you are asking about and give the year and model of your bike. If you have done modifications already, TELL THEM in the question. Not all parts fit with other parts! Even in the Harley Parts and Accessoriesbook, it tells you on some parts (like billet rocker boxes) that it will not work with another parts (oil pressure gauge kit - works on stock rocker boxes, not on custom).

We are available to answer questions as much as I can (I have personally built over 30 motorcycles and customized many more) email me through ebays' message system ebay id caltwinpartsspecialtiesbut the fastest way is direct email. I will do my best to help you out whether you buy from me or not. You should have the right part for the right price for your bike, period. I will send you to another ebayer if I must to get you the right part or other information. End of part 1

Updates September, 2006.

Rear Belts

I you are looking for belt for your Harley we have guides that can help you determine the length you need. We can also help if you provide us the type of frame (i.e. Softailor Rigid), manufacturer (Harley or Santee) of the frame, transmission pulley tooth count and rear pulley tooth count. If you know the length of the belt you took off it helps, an additional piece of information DEFINITELY needed for custom builds is the distance between the transmission pulley mainshaft and the rear axle (with the axle in the middle of the adjustment slot).

Revtech® Engines and notes on compression release valves

Revtech® Engines USED to come with compression releases standard on the 88" and 100" engines. We have them for sale as complete kits. We also have 14mm versions for dual plug Evo® or Shovelhead® engines. We also carry the long thread version of the 10mm compression release needed for Screamin’ Eagle® cylinder heads that are drilled and tapped to accept them. Also, the standard ‘drill and tap, thread your own heads’ versions are available at very reasonable prices. Our latest offering in this realm is the 6 Newton valve, which is needed when running a higher compression (12:1 or higher) OR you have a very large displacement engine (above 113"). It has a delayed popoff allowing your starter to get the engine going, when a 5 Newton (most valves out there) would already have closed.

Wide Tire Conversions

We have been asked by many people what to do about wide tire conversions. Many people do not want to have to change the rear wheel to run a narrow belt (1 1/8"). We have a kit that works, along with the separate parts. For those running a billet wheel and/or STOCK late model pulleym, we have the adapter ring (thick version) that allows the pulley to slip right on. If you have an AFTERMARKET pulley (which are typically flat) you also need the ½" pulley spacer AND the narrow adapter ring. This is due to the OEM pulley having a ½" offset cast into the pulley. The need for this comes from the spigot on the hubs being larger when HD® went to sealed wheel bearings.

Check back for periodic updates and don’t forget to check out our store on Ebay. The quick link to get in is http://stores.ebay.com/California-Twin-Parts-Specialties/   Don’t hesitate to email or call us. We will and do respond and are here to help.

Author ebuyoucorningand caltwinpartsspecialties

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